Water Softener Installation & Repair
Set up a softener for scale, or revive one that has quit working.
Start by asking where the pressure is weak. One fixture usually means a local clog. The whole house points to a valve, a regulator, a softener or a line problem.
By the Mile High Express Plumbing team · published
If only one tap or showerhead is weak, the cause is local. Mineral grit collects in aerators and showerheads. Unscrew the aerator, rinse the screen and soak it in vinegar. A worn cartridge or a partly closed stop valve under the sink can also cut flow.
A single weak fixture is rarely a sign of a larger problem, and most cases take a few minutes to fix.
If the cold side is strong and the hot side is weak, look at the water heater. Sediment can clog the outlet, a valve may be partly closed, or a corroded pipe near the heater may be restricting flow. A water heater repair visit can check the outlet and the valves.
Check the main shutoff first. A valve that is not fully open reduces flow to the entire house, especially after work on the plumbing. Then check a hose spigot with a pressure gauge to see the actual pressure. Typical household pressure sits well above 40 psi, so a reading below that is worth following up.
A pressure reducing valve near the main that has failed or been set too low is another cause. A plumber can test and replace it.
Where the pressure is poor points you toward the cause.
| Weak spot | Probable cause | Quick test |
|---|---|---|
| One fixture only | Clogged aerator, showerhead or cartridge | Rinse the screen and soak it in vinegar |
| Hot side only | Sediment or a restricted heater outlet | Check the valves and flush the tank |
| Every fixture | Main valve not fully open, or a tired regulator | Open the main and read a gauge |
| Right after a softener cycle | A fouled or malfunctioning softener | Switch to the bypass |
| Abrupt drop plus a soggy yard | A leak in the buried line | Run the meter test and call |
A failing water softener is one of the leading causes of low pressure inside a home, according to the South Adams County Water and Sanitation District. A plugged resin tank, a stuck valve or a filter cartridge due for replacement can each choke the flow.
Try the bypass on your softener or filter, if it has one. If pressure returns, the equipment is the problem. A water softener repair or water filtration visit can service it.
Older galvanized steel pipes corrode inside, and the opening narrows over the years. Pressure drops at every fixture, and rust-colored water may appear. This is usually fixed by replacing the pipe, and a repiping estimate shows the scope.
Pipes that were sized for fewer fixtures can also be too small for a house that has been remodeled.
A sudden pressure drop with a wet patch in the yard or a meter that keeps moving may mean a buried supply line has failed. A water line repair crew can find and fix it.
If the neighbors also have low pressure, the cause may be on the utility side, such as a main break or maintenance. The district's meter-pit leak line is 303-288-2646.
A pressure gauge with a hose connection is cheap and threads onto an outdoor spigot or the washer hookup. Shut every tap, attach it, open the spigot and read the dial. A home typically sits between 50 and 70 psi.
Check twice, once in the morning and once in the evening. If the pressure drops sharply when neighbors water their lawns, the utility side is the likely cause. If the reading is low all day, look at the house side.
Many houses have a bell-shaped pressure reducing valve near the main. It lowers the incoming pressure to a safe level. Over the years the internal spring and diaphragm wear, and the valve can fail low or high.
A plumber can test it and adjust or replace it. If your pressure is too high, you may also hear banging pipes. If it is too low, a new valve restores normal flow in a short visit.
Showerheads carry flow restrictors and collect mineral grit. Unscrew the head, soak it in vinegar and brush the nozzles. If the head is clean, the shower valve cartridge may be worn or blocked with debris.
A diverter between the tub spout and the shower can also stick. A plumber can open the valve, replace the cartridge and clear the debris in one visit, without opening the wall in most cases.
Run a hose or two taps at once and watch the others. If they fade together, the supply line to the house may be too small or partly blocked. Houses with a long run from the meter and several bathrooms feel this most.
A plumber can measure the flow with a gauge and compare the result with what the fixtures need. Sometimes a larger line or a booster is the answer. Fix leaks and clogs first, since they cost less.
Check that the main valve and the meter valve, if you can reach it, are fully open. Clean the aerator and showerhead. Check whether the problem is hot only or cold too. Bypass the softener or filter if you have one. Read a gauge on an outdoor spigot.
Write down what you found. When you call, the dispatcher can pass those details to the contractor, who will arrive better prepared.
Household pressure is commonly 40 to 80 psi. Check with a gauge on a hose spigot.
A clogged showerhead or a failing cartridge in the shower valve is the usual cause.
Yes. A clogged or malfunctioning softener is a common cause, according to the water district.
Yes. A leak in a buried line or inside a wall can reduce pressure.
Set up a softener for scale, or revive one that has quit working.
Swap aging galvanized, copper or early plastic supply pipes for new lines.
Pinpoint a hidden leak using acoustic listening, thermal imaging and pressure tests.
Scale on fixtures and spots on glass point to minerals. Here is what your water likely contains and whether a softener helps.
A meter, a few paper towels and a systematic walk-through can find most leaks before they cause damage.
A yearly flush and a quick check of the anode rod and relief valve can add years to a tank water heater.
Phone in and say where the pressure is weak. We will line up a local contractor.
Service area centered on Commerce City and nearby Adams County cities.